How I do it,,, framing @ the Landing

the opinions of this post are purely mine and are not to be confused with what may be said to be the only proper way to stretch stitching projects. It has been passed on down to me and it works and it is super simple to do, however I know there are other methods of doing this and I acknowledge that fact and admire others for doing it the way they are comfortable. 

This works so well for me that I will always do it as follows

 stitched project ready for a frame
first and foremost it is important that the piece
be basted around all edges.
Either hand or machine stitching is fine.
 now just to show you why I ALWAYS stitch a kit on a different piece of fabric rather than that which came in the contents of the package.
 The provided fabric is never generous enough to have work finished off
as in the photo on the front of the kit... Go figure
so now we need to add fabric to allow for turnover.
Typically I cut 3-4" strips of a very tightly woven fabric
(so it will not pull when thread is tightened.)
hold the stitched piece face up on top of the extension
and zigzag together, with a 1/4" overlap (as per black line below)
 stitch extensions on all four sides of work.
This piece is to be centered on the board so it will fit into the opening of matt.
  Now, with file clips I simply attach the "mock matt"
 to the correct position thus keeping the work in proper position
 so now I go for my tools,
 the square is to ensure the piece is in fact square on the mount,
the ruler is to ensure the same amount is all the way around the piece once on board,
the thread is one of the most important factors
as it is extremely important that it will not break while pulling it tightly.
Tent or Upholstery thread works well
and the pop bottle ensures that the long pull does not tangle
with anything along the way.
(it is a good point to have a thread which will not knot or fray)

Flip project over
 One thing I always do is to stretch the longest direction first so that the longest threads are under and the shortest distance threads will protect them from getting caught on anything.

In upper right corner pull your thread through and come straight down
take a 1/2" stitch across
(I use the width of my pointer finger for a gauge and it will come naturally how far apart
and how far from the edges of the extensions)
 you now go across the project up and down every 1/2" until you come to the end of the board.
Tie of the end of the thread with a very secure knot.
 flip work over to ensure that it has maintained positioning
then pull like the dickens...lol
Threads must be very tight.
Flip project 1/4 turn and repeat from top right corner
Now that the lacing is finished on the other direction ensure that the work is definitely in the correct position with "mock matt" if you are using a matt (just makes it easier and the real matt does not get marks on it)
tie off the ends and measure to see if the work is evenly space on mounting board,
any adjustments can be made when the threads are tied off
but it is easier to check prior to tying off and cutting.
 This next step is an important one, especially if there will be matts.
 if these corners are too bulky the backing will easily tear and not look proper.


 Now your piece is ready to put into the appropriate frame
and you can pat yourself on the back
for knowing that you did it.
((When the need for blocking arises generally for solid stitched projects,
I simply dampen the piece, unless it is one of my own 
to which I would do this right after washing it
I put push pins in, 2 @ each corner 1" from the corner at top and sides and bottom
and wrap a long brightly coloured thread 
around all 8 looping it around as in pic,
so's to make sure the lines all falling into a straight line,
then use push pins to pin the piece face down on a towel
every 1/2" while pulling taut and keeping square, 
This is all pinned to a 3/4" tight cork board which is of a larger size.))
 this one I pinned on face up but generally to be done face down
to prevent any accidental dust/dirt/fingerprints)
before I walk away I remove pins which were used 
to ensure that work was blocked on the square 
Then you wait until project is completely dry and remove from board.
ta da,,,   you have a nicely blocked piece ready for lacing.

I really hope this is of some use for you and if you have any further questions feel free to just ask and I will do my best to answer you. Feel free to comment and let me know what you think and to do so, you will just have to go back to the original post. Thank you because if one person learns something here my day is complete.
 ~ As always  ~                           xxxxx   Jayne  xxxxx
~ keep   An eye for threads
&  Be  Always  in  Stitches ~

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